EASY WAY TO REMOVE BROKEN SCREW EXTRACTOR DRIVER
no matter what type of fastener you are using, ALWAYS start it by hand first and get it in a few threads before putting any kind of driver on it and as long as the threads on both the fastener and whatever you are fastening it to are in good shape, there should never be any such issue to begin with! Also if you do notice any unusual resistance while you are driving a fastener, STOP immediately, back it out and figure out what is causing it before continuing!
I know this is old but for some reason it came up while I was looking for something else and I just want to add this in case it's coming up for others as well.Įveryone here missed the most important point on this entire thing, which is Plastic, aluminum, titanium, brass, steel, etc. Now I need to go to a LBS and ask if they could replace the thing.īottom line: don't use plastic screws: they are evil. The bolt become stuck within the "nipple". The "nipple" at the frame began rotating, with respect to the frame. Having done everything possible, I inserted a steel screw and tried to chase the thread with it. This was the most successful method so far.
Bought a cheap, thin-nose, 30W iron and managed to remove a lot of material. The bolt is in the bottom of the front triangle, so even though I used a flexible arm (like the ones at the dentist's), I was unable to attack the screw co-axially and the drill bit constantly hit against the aluminum frame. I got it several millimeters deep, but when I attempted to turn, half of the screw broke off. So, firstly I tried to burn a slot in the body of the screw with a heated screwdriver. The feeling is comparable to those metal bolts with rubber seal to prevent vibration.Ĭonsequently, when I was screwing the bolt in, there was no increase in the feedback torque - it was moderately difficult to screw the bolt in, up until the head broke off. The source of the problem was that the plastic body of the screw threads difficultly into the thread.
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